Right start for broilers

RIGHT START WITH GOOD INCOME Pets BROILERS The first 24 hours of life pinakmaselan our "day old chick" or chick. Need more intense "attention" to adjust to the farm before the chicks. Here are the following tips gathered by Greenline to properly prepare for the upcoming chick on its first day: Health - There is no health without profit. Healthy and proper weight of chicks or "day old chick" is growing by sperm strain on them, so you need to clean the place and for whom it dekontaminadong. Need Bakunado as the chick from the hatchery. And do not allow entry of people in need or enjoy the farm. Air - Provide clean, fresh air and proper heat with a hearty "oxygen." Should not the stench caused by "carbon dioxide and ammonia" gasses in the atmosphere. Excess gasses around are harmless to animals and can also lead to death. The good "ventilation" households escape the smell of the fresh air, but the air should not lead to chills chicks. Brooding or Heat - Poor control of the chick in heat and moisture they so difficult for them to ever-changing temperatures. Should the chick in temperatures from 880-920F or 310-320C in the first 24 hours. Water and Food - must have food and clean water the chicks from 8 hours Upon. The long delayed due to long trips it will give in the chick box of special foods that help the body in mummification. Support reached households in the chicks have been tempted to drink immediately. With innovative supplements also provided with chick that help fast-food and supplement the immunity. Buy it "Chick Boost" Greenline. Usage - Before the chicks should be prepared that the entire farm to need such ample space for chickens, food and watering trough and clean and correct "litter material." We also need an adequate amount of rack and watering trough and properly placing it in the house accessible to the chickens and they were not crowded. Inserts or "Litter" - Give special attention to using rags on the floor or "floor" like burnt rice hull and newspapers, etc. If no new gasket available sufficient to replace only the wet and dull strata. In the first 24 hours spread over the newspapers painitang area. Very useful to prevent contamination in the first hours after the chick. Water Quality and Food - The grain of food should peckish chicks and the water should gasing heating of the atmosphere. The newly hatched chick is 85 percent water. When reseko it has 10 percent become "cull" and if 20 percent reseko can die chick. Drunk very quickly and with sufficient volume. If there is sufficient amount of water ingested, the correct heat "brooder" clean and abundant wind chicks can easily reach four body weight from Upon within a week. Conclusions: Before the chick in the farm, make sure that all the prepared and used in the right place. The duration of the expansion of the 864 hours or 36 days before being sold, each time was 0.12 per cent in its life so that within 24 hours with 2.80 percent of the "performance" you may lose. In general, if a good start with good earnings Pets broilers.

Chicken broiler production

Chicken broiler production is one of the most progressive animal enterprises in the Philippines today. The poultry industry began as a backyard enterprise but has shifted to the formation of very large integrated contract farming operations. Ecological Implications Livestock production impacts on the environment through possible effects on surface and ground water quality, gas emissions from animal wastes, and unpleasant odors arising from the enterprise. Manure management is less problematic in poultry enterprises, where manure management does not usually entail wet disposal as in piggery enterprises, and where the chicken dung is often routinely collected for conversion into organic fertilizer or fish feeds. Gases emitted in livestock enterprises include ammonia, carbon dioxide, methane, and nitrous oxide. The latter three contribute to atmospheric changes that lead to global warming. Unpleasant odors emanating from a livestock enterprise are a function of the scale of operation and sound manure management. It is likely that the increasing scale of operation in livestock enterprises in the past years has also intensified the adverse environmental impacts of the industry. The challenge is to constantly develop more efficient and effective technologies for managing animal wastes tailored to different scales of production, even as various means of converting such wastes to useful products (e.g. biogas, fertilizer) have been in use for many years.

Kleen farm concentrate

KLEEN FARM CONCENTRATE is so formulated to serve as deodorizer,disinfectant and cleaning solution in PIGGERIES, POULTRIES, CATTLE HOUSES,STOCK FARM etc. Its active ingredients is chlorinated sodium hydroxide with special formulation to increase its efectivity, stability, miscibility, wettability and bacteriostatic property. When diluted to about 50 times its volume, its non-toxic , biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Tests showed that at a water dilution of up to 50 times its volume, the following microoorganism are completely killed: Staphilococcus Aerus Salmonella choleraesius Salmonella Pullorum Escherechia Coli Pseudomonas Aeuginosa, Pseudomas Flouresens, Shegilla Dysenterias, Bacillus Cereus, Aerobacter Aerogenes, Proteus Vulgaris, Streptococcus Faecalis, Micrococus Flavius, Microbacterium Bovis, etc... Sanitation Appropriate sanitation and disinfection measures will help to prevent disease transfer from the old flock to the new one. One of the key preventative measures for poultry diseases is proper sanitation. It is important to thoroughly clean out the empty rooms between flocks and remove any visible manure and dirt. All feeding, watering, and ventilation equipment should also be scrupulously cleaned. Following cleaning and prior to placement of new chicks the area should also be sprayed with KLEEN FARM DISINFECTANT,DEODORIZER,CLEANER. Leaving the building empty for a short period of time (2-3 weeks) will also aid in eliminating infectious organisms. Some diseases (coccidiosis) may not be eliminated, but will be reduced. If outdoor runs are used, they should also be scraped clean. Disinfection is difficult, but it is beneficial to allow the area to dry thoroughly prior to bird placement. It is also important to keep the area as dry as possible when birds are present. MAS MABUTING GUMAMIT MUNA NG DISINFECTANT BAGO MAG STOCK O MAG ALAGA,,IISPRAY ANG DISINFECTANT SA BUONG PALIGID NG BAHAY O KULUNGAN NG ATING MGA ALAGA, UPANG MAKAIWAS SA MGA LUMALAGANAP NA MGA SAKIT SA ATING PALIGID It is also effective in eradicating the following viruses: Herpes Simplex, Newcastle virus, Avian influenza, Avian infectius brochilis virus, etc... KLEEN FARM CONCENTRATE diluted to 50 times its volume with water and by spraying on piggery wastes and pens, effectively deodorizes piggery wastes for seven days. KLEEN FARM CONCENTRATE is an alkaline solution and its therefore irritating to handle, therfore the concentrate should not be handled with bare hand. Use plastic gloves to protect your hands. It is irritating to the skin. Paraan ng paggamit: Ihalo ang isang parte ng KLEEN FARM CONENTRATE sa 50 parte ng tubig halimbawa ihalo ang 100 ml na KLEEN FARM sa 5 Liters na tubig,,ihalo ng mabuti at i ispray sa paligid ng kulungan ng mga alagang hayop,,o kahit saan man na may masangsang na amoy gaya ng pusali,kanal,drainage ng kulungan,deposito ng dumi ng alagang hayop. Ang KLEEN FARM ay mabisang nag tatangal ng masasangsang na amoy at pumapatay ng masasamang mikrobyo. Ang KLEEN FARM ay mabisang pamatay sa mga itlog ng mga langaw. Ang KLEEN FARM ay solusyon sa mga nagkalat na sakit ng baboy at manok ito ay nagsisilbing prebensyon sa mga sakit na paparating at maaring dumapo sa ating mga alaga... Ugaliing mag spray ng KLEEN FARM sa paligid ng ating mga hayupan..

Estimated Investment Costs

This is an example of estimated investment cost Housing – P40,000 Equipment – P30,000 Day old chick (500 x P24/head) – P12,000 Assumptions: Growing period of 42-45 days Target weight of 1.6kg Mortality of 4% Feeds: Chick booster 10g/head/day for 7 days @P13.84/kg – P484.40 Broiler starter 60g/head/day for 3 weeks @P21.03/kg – 13,248.90 Broiler finisher 90g/head/day for 2 weeks @P20.34/kg – P12,814.20 Medication P2/chick – P1,000 Operating Expenses (electricity, labor, farm rental, water) – P5,000 Initial investment per batch – P42,547.50 Estimated total cost – P112,547.50

The Penultimate Chicken Feed Recipe

As of the moment, we are feeding our baby chicks the following types of chicken feeds: 1. Chick Booster

Chick booster, or what they call GMP-1 GMP-1 means Gawa para sa Manok Panabong in our local tongue. When translated in English, it means made for fighting cocks. We are using chick booster for fighting cocks, and it works very well. We feed this to both baby Kabir chicks and 45-day old chicks. 2. Purina 100

We also feed our baby chickens Purina 100 chick booster. Now this is what we call love. We feed our chickens with Purina 100 chick booster as an alternative, because we love our chickens to death. And besides, Purina 100 is marginally more expensive compared to GMP-1. And they love it, too!

Veteracin

Vetracin Gold Soluble is an anti-pneumonia product specifically formulated with two potent antibiotics -- tiamulin and doxycycline and fortified with Vitamins A and B12. This unique combination ensures more effective control of mycoplasmal and bacterial pneumonia while maintaining growth of diseased animals. Doxycycline is a new generation tetracycline known for its excellent absorption orally, superior spectrum of activity against common respiratory infections that complicates pneumonia and high therapeutic concentration in the lungs where the infection is. Tiamulin is a pleuromutilin derivative with excellent efficacy against mycoplasma -- the primary cause of swine pneumonia. It is highly absorbed orally, concentrates in the lungs for more effective treatment and has low incidence of bacterial resistance. Vetracin Gold's antibiotic combination has been tested to be superior in efficacy compared to tiamulin or doxycycline alone. Moreover, Vetracin Gold Soluble is fortified with a high dose of Vitamin A which helps in the maintenance and repair of epithelial linings of the respiratory tract and enhances the immune sytem. High dose of Vitamin B12 is also included to help animals maintain growth rate even in the presence of disease by facilitating efficient utilization of nutrients for energy production. Product Benefits: - DRUG OF CHOICE FOR PNEUMONIA (with proven efficacy against mycoplasma and bacteria causing respiratory infections in swine and poultry) - HIGH BIOAVAILABILITY (lipophlic components results to up to 90% absorption rate when administered orally even in the presence of food) - LESS BACTERIAL RESISTANCE(synergism lowers the minimum inhibitory concentration for susceptible microorganisms versus concentrations attained in the blood, hence less chances for bacterial resistance development - ASSURED QUALITY (manufactured under ISO 9001:2000 protocols and GMP-certified processes) Technical Information: Per kilogram contains: Tiamulin hydrogen fumarate, 20,000 mg Doxycycline HCl, 83,000 mg Vitamin A, 12,000,000 IU Vitamin B12, 1,500 mcg PRECAUTIONS: Do not give to animals receiving ionophore anticoccidials such as salinomycin, monensin or narasin. Do not treat chickens producing eggs for human consumption. Dosage and Administration: Swine: Prevention: 2 tsp per gallon of water on the 5th, 9th and 13th week of age depending on pneumonia occurence. Treatment: 2 tsp per gallon of water for 5 to 7 days. Poultry: Prevention: 1 tsp per gallon of water for 7 days during stress periods. Treatment: 2 tsp per gallon of water for 5 to 7 days.

Using azolla for feed

Chicks after 20 days before you feed Using azolla as livestock feed NARDEP method of azolla production 1. It is important to keep azolla at the rapid multiplication growth phase with the minimum doubling time. Therefore biomass (around 200 g per square meter) should be removed every day or on alternate days to avoid overcrowding 2. Periodic application of cow-dung slurry, super phosphate and other macro and micronutrients except nitrogen, will keep the fern multiplying rapidly. 3. The temperature should be kept below 25 °C. If the temperature goes up the light intensity should be reduced by providing shade. If possible, it is best to place the production unit where it is shady. 4. The pH should be tested periodically and should be maintained between 5.5 and 7. 5. About 5 kg of bed soil should be replaced with fresh soil, once in 30 days, to avoid nitrogen build up and prevent micro-nutrient deficiency. 6. 25 to 30 percent of the water also needs to be replaced with fresh water, once every 10 days, to prevent nitrogen build up in the bed. 7. The bed should be cleaned, the water and soil replaced and new azolla inoculated once every six months. 8. A fresh bed has to be prepared and inoculated with pure culture of azolla, when contaminated by pest and diseases. 9. The azolla should be washed in fresh water before use to remove the smell of cow dung. Azolla should be harvested with a plastic tray having holes of 1 cm2 mesh size to drain the water. Azolla should be washed to get rid of the cow dung smell. Washing also helps in separating the small plantlets which drain out of the tray. The plantlets along with water in the bucket can be poured back into the original bed. When introducing azolla as feed, the fresh azolla should be mixed with commercial feed in 1:1 ratio to feed livestock. After a fortnight of feeding on azolla mixed with concentrate, livestock may be fed with azolla without added concentrate. For poultry, azolla can be fed to layers as well as broilers. Though there is no large-scale incidence of pests and diseases in silpauline based production system, pest and disease problems have been noticed during intensive cultivation. In case of severe pest attack the best option is to empty the entire bed and lay out a fresh bed in a different location. With this method the cost of production of azolla is less than Rs 0.65 per kilogram, which is equivalent to US$0.015 (see Table 2). Conclusion Azolla can be used as an ideal feed for cattle, fish, pigs and poultry, and also is of value as a bio-fertilizer for wetland paddy. It is popular and cultivated widely in other countries like China, Vietnam, and the Philippines, but has yet to be taken up in India, in a big way. Dairy farmers in South Kerala and Kanyakumari have started to take up the low cost production technology and we hope that the azolla technology will be taken up more widely by dairy farmers, in particular those who have too little land for fodder production.

Heat, Light and After four weeks

You can use this or bulb for day old chicks HEAT: The temperature where the birds are should be 90 to 95 degrees for the first week. Reduce the temperature 5 degrees per week until you get to 70 degrees. Then they shouldn't need any more heat. A good source of heat is a 250 watt bulb. (Red bulbs are better than white. They cause less picking.) Hang it 18 inches from the floor. The temperature directly under the bulb will be higher than 90 degrees but the birds will adjust themselves to the area they like. Use 1 bulb for each 50 chicks in cold weather. Use 1 bulb for each 100 chicks in warm weather. LIGHT: If you use a heat bulb, this will also serve as the light you need. Otherwise, be sure to give your birds light. Use a 75 watt bulb on dark days. Have a small light for night - 15 watts or similar - to keep them from piling. AFTER FOUR WEEKS: 1. Increase floor area to 3/4 square feet per bird. 2. Increase feeders to provide 2-1/2" to 3" of space per bird. 3. Increase waterers to one 5-gallon fount per 100 birds. 4. Make sure grit hopper is filled with proper sized grit. Check with your feed man. 5. Install roosts at back of brooder area. Allow four inches per bird with roost poles six inches apart. 6. Open windows in day-time. Leave only partly open at night. 7. Prevent water puddles around founts. Place founts on low wire platforms. 8. Birds can range outside on warm, sunny days, but only if clean range is available.

Draft Shield, Litter, Grit and Picking

DRAFT SHIELD: Cardboard put in a circle about 12 inches high around the birds helps cut down drafts on the floor. Be sure the circle is large enough to allow the birds to get away from the heat if they want to. LITTER: Wood shavings, rice hulls, or ground cobs make good litter. Do not use cedar chips,sawdust (It is too small and the birds may eat it instead of their food), or treated wood chips. Sand, straw, or dirt will also work but are not as good as the others. Put the litter all over the floor at least 1 inch thick. Keep it covered for the first day with newspapers to keep the chicks from eating the litter instead of the feed. To avoid possible leg problems, remove the papers after the first day for heavy breeds and meat birds and after the third day for lighter breeds. GRIT: Starting the 3rd day sprinkle baby grit on the feed daily as if you were salting your food. Avoid putting too much at any one time as the bird may fill up on it instead of the feed. PICKING: Baby birds will often pick each other if they are too hot, too crowded,or without fresh air. Occasionally bright light also causes them to pick. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to picking. Sometimes, however, they pick for no apparent reason. To stop it try putting in fresh green grass clippings several times a day and darken the room. As a last resort, debeaking might have to be done. Try cutting off about one-third of the top bill. Do not cut the lower bill, just the top one. To treat birds that have been picked, smear pine tar or black grease on the injured area.

After Chicks Arrived

SPECIAL SITUATIONS AFTER THE CHICKS ARRIVE IF THE BIRDS HAD A HARD TRIP: Instead of using the standard feed and water suggestions listed, try this: Put 6 more tablespoons of sugar in each gallon of water. Then mix some of this extra sweet water with some of your feed to make a soupy mix. Give your birds this special feed and water mix for 3 to 4 days to get them over the effects of shipping. REAR END "PASTING UP": Sometimes the stress of shipping causes the manure to stick to the back of the bird. It is important to remove this daily. Pull off gently or, better yet, wash off with a cloth and warm water. It will disappear in a few days as the bird starts to grow. CORNISH X ROCKS AND BARBECUE: Try starting these groups on broiler starter. (The higher protein seems to help them avoid leg problems.) We would also recommend you not let these birds eat all they want. Fill the feeders each day and let the feed run out in the late afternoon. Research has shown these birds will grow just a fraction slower but have considerably less problems by not feeding them continuously. Also add extra amount of vitamins from the start. We recommend either Quik Chik or Broiler Booster in the water from start to finish. SPACE: Try to provide 1/2 square foot per bird at the start. For starting 50 chicks use a draft shield (see below) and make a circle about 5 to 6 feet across. For 100 birds, make the circle 7 to 8 feet across. Registration Requirements Business name registration (www.bnrs.dti.gov.ph) Barangay clearance – from the barangay office, which has jurisdiction over the area where the business is located. Mayor’s/Business Permit and License/Sanitary Permit (check your local municipality/city) BIR TIN (www.bir.gov.ph) Environmental Compliance Certificate (www.denr.gov.ph)l

Water for day old chicks

WATER: Have a 1 gallon chick waterer for each 50 birds. DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE. For the first 2 days add 3 tablespoons of table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. For best results, have either Quik Chik, Broiler Booster, or an antibiotic in the water. Your birds will be thirsty when you get them. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. There are many kinds this item you can choose your own or buy in the market.

Feeder for day old chick

This is an example of feeder, you can create your own or buy in the market. For farmers who have a large amount of chickens, it can be a difficult task to keep them fed all the time. Automatic chicken feeders can be purchased, but they are often costly. Fortunately, it is not very difficult to make your own feeder, and it is a much cheaper alternative. Take the plastic jar and cut a large hole in the bottom of it. Do not cut all the way to the edge, but instead leave about 1 inch of room around the bottom. Take one of the pie tins and flip it upside down. Cut a hole in it that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the jar. You want the jar to be able rest on it but not fall through it. Cut several more holes around the edge of the pie tin. They should be slightly larger than the size of a quarter. These will be where your chickens peck out the chicken feed. Take the other pie tin and leave it facing right-side up. Spread glue around the rim and stick the upside-down pie tin on top of it. You should now have a saucer shape made with the two pie tins. Glue the jar over the large hole you have cut in the pie tin. Allow to dry completely. You now have your chicken feeder. To fill it, unscrew the jar lid and pour the chicken feed inside. As the chickens eat the food, more will gradually pour out. FEED: Use a commercial chick booster for the first 8 weeks. On the first day cover the litter with newspaper and spread some feed on the papers and have your feeders full also. This will allow the new birds to find the feed. Use a 2 foot feeder for each 25 chicks. After the first day remove the papers from the starting area. Please refer to the order blank for feed protein levels for the type of poultry you are ordering.

20 days old chicks

My term 'Twenty Day Old Chicks' is slightly misleading because after twenty days the birds are no longer chicks, but nearly full grown chickens. As you see in the video, at 20 days the 'chicks' are now 1.5 to 2 kilos. That is 3 1/3 to almost 4 1/2 pounds. Considering they still have fifteen days to go they will be quite large chickens by then. We are raising thirty five day chickens. meaning they can be processed for food after 35 days. There are always a few slightly slower growing and they may be extended to 45 days. After a maximum of 45 days they will not grow more and are not practical to feed. The raising of the chickens was timed so they would be ready for Halloween. Halloween is a much more celebrated occasion here than in the USA. Myra new the Market was ripe and all the birds would be sold for the occasion. She has sold all of her chickens already. They are to be delivered or picked up on the November 1st, that is the celebrated day in the Philippines. Myra only saved me three. The next clutch of chicks will be purchased with Christmas in mind. We want fryers ready to sell for Christmas diner. There is always mixed emotion when preparing the chickens to sell. After feeding and tending the chickens for over a month there is always an amount of bonding that takes place. I felt dad for Myra when the last birds were all sold. She was out sitting next to the coop the next day and when I approached her she looked at me and said, " Hun Hun all my chicks gone. I have no chicks. I am too sad. " Myra likes raising fryers, but will not eat any of the chickens she had raised. She prepared chicken for me. When I asked her why she she wasn't eating she said, " I don't to eat my chicks I like fish more."

Setting the stage

Brooder: a safe place to keep chicks warm, watered, and fed. You can buy or build elaborate brooders, but many chick growers go with a large plastic tote or large cardboard box. Be certain to have the right size (with high walls) for the number of chicks. You can also start small and move to a larger brooder as the chicks get older. Finally, you'll want a (ventilated) lid to keep brave chicks from escaping once they get bigger. --Brooder location: You want to keep the brooder in a warm, dry place; many people set it up in a garage, others do it in their house, while yet others do it in the chicken coop (if there are no adult chickens in the coop). -- Heat lamp: Fairly essential to keeping the chicks warm and their temperature regulated, as they can't do so initially. You can use a regular lamp and lightbulb, but products made for this purpose (with a guard) are a bit safer and more consistent. Attaching heat lamp to a 2x4 across top of brooder works well as does attaching it to a floor lamp's pole. --Thermometer: While not absolutely crucial, a thermometer will help you more easily monitor the temperature in the brooder. -- Bedding: Pine shavings in general are the best materials, but in the first week or so, we like newspapers with a layer of paper towels on top (because the chicks will try eating the pine shavings). -- Waterer: Absolutely essential to have one or more waterers designed specifically for chicks; other systems will lead to sad results and death. -- Feeder: You don't necessarily have to get chick feeders (though it's recommended); some folks use the base of an egg carton. If you don't use a chick feeder, be more vigilant about keeping the feed clean (from poop) and dry. Some experts recommend simply placing the feed on a paper plate for the first few days. -- Chick starter feed: It's essential to use a feed specifically designed as starter for chicks; your main choice will be deciding between regular and medicated. Feed this feed for the first 8 weeks or so. -- Electrolyte powder: If your chicks are arriving by mail, purchase the electrolyte powder (think Gatorade for chicks) to supplement their water starting the third day or so and give the chicks extra strength in those key early days. (Old timers used to put sugar in the chick water.) -- Coop: Unless you're keeping the brooder in the coop, you don't technically need to have it ready now, but it's best -- as time will pass quickly. Every imaginable type of chicken coop exists -- and your goal should be to find/build the one that best fits your needs/code/number of chickens. -- Pen: The healthiest chickens are the ones who forage the yard for their food, thus you should have a plan for where you'll let your chickens roam, from one nicely fenced pen to a series of pens, to a moving pen, to your entire backyard. The pen should be fenced/enclosed to protect chickens from predators.

Location requirements

Location Requirements and Recommended Layout for Poultry Farms At least 1km away from the house. A poultry farm must be located outside urban areas. It must be located in 25 m radius from sources of ground and surface drinking water. Medium and large poultry farms must be at feast 1 km away from built-up areas (residential, commercial, institutional and industrial) while a small scale must be at least 500 m away from these areas.

Housing for day old chicks

Housing Chickens, being warm blooded, have the ability to maintain a rather uniform temperature of their internal organs. However, the mechanism is efficient only when the ambient temperature is within certain limits. Birds cannot adjust well to extremes; therefore, it is very important that chickens be housed, cared and provided with an environment that will enable them to maintain their thermal balance. If possible, the length of the broiler house should run from east to west. This prevents direct sunlight from penetrating the side walls of the house, which could cause heat build-up inside. Ventilation is very important. Allocate at least 1 square foot of floor space per bird. If constructing an open-sided type of housing, elevate the house about 1.5 m from the ground. This ensures proper circulation of air and easier collection of fecal matter underneath the house after each harvest. The building should be rat proof, bird proof, and cat proof. Trees may be planted on the sides of the house to provide shade during hot season. These can also serve as protection from storms or weather disturbances. The roofing should be monitor-type and high enough to provide better ak circulation inside the broiler house. In preparation for the arrival of the chicks, thoroughly clean the house with the use of a high pressure washer to remove dust, fecal matter, or any debris inside. Disinfect the house and all equipment to be used.

Rearing of the growing stock

Rearing of the Growing Stock Broilers are marketed when they reach 45-60 days of age depending on strain. Birds are given anti-stress drugs, either in the feed or in the drinking water, 2-5 days before and after they are transferred to the growing houses. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the growing houses prior to the transfer of the growing stock. Transfer birds only during good weather. During summer, birds’ appetite diminishes but this may be sufficiently restored by wet mash feeding or by taking appropriate measures like spraying, misting, or sprinkling the roofing with water to lower house temperature. Selection of Stock to Raise Stock should be purchased from a reliable hatchery or dealer where the parent stocks are well housed and well managed. Select/buy only healthy chicks (i.e. dry, fluffy feathers, bright eyes, and alert and active appearance; free from diseases, and abnormalities, chicks should have uniform size and color; and in the case of broiler chicks, it should be less than 33 grams at day-old). Choose those that have high livability and are fast growers.

Rearing of the day old chicks

Rearing of the Day-Old Chicks Provide sufficient artificial heat to keep day-old chicks warm during the day and night. Avoid abrupt changes in brooder temperature during the first two weeks of life. Provide adequate space for chicks as they grow. Overcrowding is one of the factors affecting poor growth. Good ventilation also helps avoid future respiratory diseases. Also, provide a good light source as a well-lighted brooder encourages chicks to start feeding. Provide the chicks with good quality feeds either home grown or commercially sourced. Feed the chicks intermittently rather than continuously. Research studies have shown that chicks utilize nutrients better when using intermittent feeding. Do not allow feed troughs to go empty for more than 1-2 hours. Cleanliness and dryness of the brooding quarters will prevent chicks’ contamination from parasites and diseases, which might have been carried by previously brooded chicks. Environment should be kept as uniform as possible. Sudden changes in the surroundings cause a certain degree of stress or insecurity (e.g. removal of brooder canopy; slamming doors of brooder houses; or the presence of drafts), it is advisable that a regular caretaker feed the chicks following a definite schedule during the first three weeks of the chick’s life. Make sure that feeds and fresh water are always available. Vitamins, minerals, and antibiotic supplements may be added to the drinking water during the first few days. Consult your feed dealer. Always check the chicks at night before going to sleep. All weak, deformed, and sickly chicks should be culled right away and disposed of properly. The immediate burning or burying of dead birds is an important part of a good sanitation program. Do not expose to flies or rats.